One of Morocco's most historically significant cities, Fes was first founded as “Madinat Fas” on the southeast bank of the Fez River by Idris I, founder of the Idrisid dynasty. Idris I, a Hasanid Sharif from Arabia, fled to northern Morocco after a failed revolt against the Abbasid Caliphate. His son, Idris II, then built a settlement called al-ʿĀliyá on the opposing riverbank in 809 and moved his capital there from Walili (Volubilis). The early population of Fes was composed mostly of Berbers, along with Arab warriors from Kairouan who had accompanied Idris II on his long journey. Additional immigrants subsequently came in their wake, particularly Andalusian families of mixed Arab and Iberian descent. (Most of the Andalusians had arrived following a rebellion that had taken place in Córdoba during the early 9th century.) Upon the death of Idris II in 828, the region was divided among his sons, leading to several internal conflicts erupting across the region. Idris’ eldest son, Muhammad, specifically received Fes as part of his inheritance, but he had to continuously protect the settlement amid various challenges from his own brothers. Although Fes managed to recover for a while upon the conclusion of the Idrisid-era civil wars, it nonetheless became the target of attacks from both the Umayyad and Fatimid Caliphates during the 10th century. The city changed hands multiple times between the proxies of each kingdom for many years until the Almoravids finally conquered it outright several decades later.  

Fes came to flourish under Almoravid rule, with all kinds of sprawling infrastructural projects transpiring throughout the community. The most impressive structures developed at the time involved a series of intricate bridges, as well as an impressive ring of ramparts. The attention granted Fes considerable cultural significance within the greater Almoravid empire, inspiring generations of jurists and scholars to relocate to the area. However, warfare soon returned when the rival Almohad dynasty toppled the Almoravids in 1145. But the Almohads themselves were later expelled by another powerful family remembered as the Marinids. Fes continued to prosper, gradually emerging as an important regional center for art and science. The Marinids contributed to this prosperity, helping create new neighborhoods that transformed the surrounding skyline. Dozens of gorgeously crafted buildings debuted across Fes in consequence, especially several sprawling madrasas—educational institutions that taught religious and secular topics. Then starting in the 15th century, Fes—as well as many other regions within Morocco—fell into another state of prolonged strife. Another family known as the Wattasids eventually overthrew the Marinids in 1472, but they in turn were defeated by the Saadians not long thereafter.  

Fortunately for the inhabitants of the city, the rise of the ‘Alawis saw a massive community-wide restoration beginning in the mid-17th century. Led specifically by Moulay Rashid, the 'Alawi dynasty constructed a series of incredible buildings, including the iconic Kasbah Cherarda and the Cherratine Madrasa. Stability thus returned to Fes for much of the next few centuries, despite a brief period of conflict that broke out with a nearby tribe called the “Udayas.” The 'Alawis continued to rebuild and restore various areas in the city, making it a desirable place to live for the Moroccan elite. But in the early 20th century, the French established colonial rule in Morocco following the Treaty of Fes. The French administration proceeded to build a new modern city—the Ville Nouvelle—outside the historic downtown core. Magnificent motifs of the European Belle Epoque appeared throughout Fes, granting it yet another distinctively stunning architectural layer. After Morocco gained independence in 1956, Fes continued to grow exponentially to the point where it is now the second largest city in Morocco. Fes has since maintained its revered reputation in the present, with travelers often referring to the community as the “Athens of Africa.” Contemporary cultural heritage travelers have especially enjoyed visiting the city due to the many landmarks that call Fes home, including Bab Bou Jeloud, Bou Inania Madrasa, Al-Attarine Madrasa, and Fes’ historic city center—the UNESCO-recognized Fes el-Bali. 

The riad—a quintessential element of Moroccan architecture—is a type of garden courtyard historically associated with houses and palaces in the Maghreb and al-Andalus. The term "riad" comes from the Arabic word for "gardens,” and its classic form is a rectangular garden divided into four quadrants by two intersecting paths that typically features a fountain. This architectural feature has ancient roots that evolved significantly over the centuries, reflecting the cultural and historical influences that have shaped the greater region. More specifically, the concept of the riad is believed to have originated from traditional Persian gardens, whose influence spread during the Islamic period. The design of these gardens—known as “chahar bagh”—possessed a symmetrical layout with a central water feature, symbolizing the idea of paradise in Islamic culture. The basic structure of the accompanying house had origins tracing back to Greco-Roman concepts, such as the notion that the use of interior courtyards could offer a serene, private place on-site.  Riads in Morocco contained similar symmetrical layouts and central fountains, often highlighting a rich blend of Persian-inspired detailing. The medieval-era Almoravid dynasty had played an especially significant role instituting the riad throughout Morocco, commissioning artisans to work on countless buildings in the design in cities like Fes and Marrakesh. In fact, the earliest known example of a true riad garden in Morocco was found in the Almoravid palace built by Ali ibn Yusuf in Marrakesh in the early 12th century!  The Marinid dynasty, which ruled Morocco from the 13th to the 15th centuries, continued to develop and enhance riad architecture, too.  

The Marinids themselves proceeded to build many of the principal monuments in the Fes, including several madrasas that featured riad-style courtyards. Indeed, these gardens were not only aesthetically pleasing but erved as spaces for relaxation and contemplation. Other successive ruling Moroccan families—such as the Saadia and the 'Alawi dynasties—only further the use of riad gardens in their palaces, as epitomized by their respective creation of the Badi Palace and Arsat an-Nil in Marrakesh. But in Fes, the riad became more common in recent centuries, despite the city's sloped landscape and dense architectural fabric. Riads were typically the stately homes of wealthy citizens of the city, such as merchants and courtiers, who could afford to build mansions with interior gardens. Their houses were always inward-focused, while the gardens contained citrus trees. Walls often featured rich elements like stucco, zellij tiles, and tadelakt plaster, as well as inscriptions of Arabic calligraphy and Quranic quotes. The design of riads mirrored the social mores of Islamic society, too, which valued privacy and encouraged a separation between private family spaces and semi-public areas. Moroccan residents across Fes have attempted to preserve many of the surviving riads in recent years, given their extreme importance to the city’s greater cultural heritage. Taking creative approaches toward preservation, many of those historic homes have been restored into facilities like hotels, libraries, or restaurants, attracting tourists with their unique architectural charm and historical significance. The most notable instance of successful raid preservation history has been the 19th-century Dar Bartha palace, which exists today as a fascinating museum. The revival of riads have truly helped to cement their place within Moroccan culture, ensuring that they will continue to endure for future generations to appreciate. 

Antonio Guterres, 9th Secretary-General of the United Nations (2017 – present)